The $180 one will also do freeze frame and live operating data which is handy for diagnostic purposes. You can check and clear codes, look up the vin (on newer cars), and check the readiness monitors. I have an older version of that $70 reader, I got it for $20 on clearance. I chose mine for Honda codes, got a newer one for the SRS Honda codes) Select it more for if it reads Honda specific codes (fords were not that fickly, most readers should do the job) My car has an Ultragauge on the dash, displays quite a bit of live data and can read/erase codes if neededĪs long as you own an old car, does not matter much. Our shop has a scanner from Matco that gets a lot of use too. Still considering getting a $20 engine code reader/eraser just for speed Mastertech scanner (mine, pretty much obsolete now) Hondas HDS scanner software (on two of my personal laptops) Sometimes people post with codes that can’t exist in their car, that means some code readers aren’t 100% accurate at reading the codes.Ĩ0% of my entire career has revolved around your pesky warning lights LOL Some codes are easy, read code and throw a part at it….other codes aren’t so simple and some people can waste a lot of money by not doing their homework first.
#IS HONDA HDS JUST AN AUTO DIAGNOSTIC CODE SCANNER BLUETOOTH#
You can get dongles that you plug into the port and it bluetooth all the data to your cell phone. There’s also cheap ones you can plug into the OBD2 port and get readings on your phone via Bluetooth, so there’s that. Fancier ones actually give readouts and stuff. The only I bought only shows you the code and allows you to delete them. With the aid of mobile Google machines, you can easily and quickly begin to troubleshoot CELs. I bought a cheap one, well, cheap back then ($60 in 2007) and it’s been plenty useful. Bluetooth dongles and the torque app running with mobile phone.Car models: couple of Honda Civics and a Ford and they all have OBD II ports.